How do I store canna tubers for the winter?

Q: I have dug and now am drying the excess moisture from the cannas. I am splitting the excessive clumps for storage. Should I take the clumps down to one tuber or can I leave a few together? Should I dust with rooting hormone (Bontone Rooting Powder or the like, for winter storage? I have never used hormone powder before for storage, but sounds like it might be a good idea.

— Sam Marquez

A: Our winters are often too cold for cannas to stay in the ground so, as Sam notes, we dig them up and store them in a dry, cool place until spring. You can wait until the frost blackens the foliage.

There are at least two schools of thought on dividing cannas. Some like to divide them in the fall, others in spring. Some divide them each year, others only every two or three seasons. You don't have to divide them at all if you don't want to, but the clumps grow quickly.

When you do decide to divide them, locate the eyes or the growing points, like the eyes of a potato. Then divide the tuber into chunks making sure that each piece has at least three eyes. One may be all that's necessary but why risk it.

The clusters can be as large or small as suits your garden. The cut edges will heal over but dusting with fungicide or rooting hormone reduces the risks of problems with rot or fungus.

Here's a quick review on saving cannas:

First, cut back the tops to about 3 to 4 inches, then loosen the soil around the cluster of tubers. Using a garden fork on a dry sunny day will make swift work of lifting the tuber clusters.

Lift each clump and turn them over; allow the tubers to dry for at least several hours. Be sure to move them to a dry spot if rain threatens.

Dust off the loose soil and dust the tubers with a fungicide, rooting hormone works well. This is not necessary under ideal conditions but will help if you have problems with rotting during storage. It will also protect against fungus.

The tubers can be stored in peat, vermiculite, sand, or if you have no problems with moisture— paper. Keep the box open or ventilate it. Cannas can also be stored on shelves, racks or in mesh bags. Select an area that is below 50 degrees but frost-free, dark an dry.

Each month, check for rotting and discard the tuber or cut off the problem area. If the tubers get dry and shrivel, soak them in water for a few hours, allow them to dry and then return them to storage.

In spring, after all chances of frost are past, replant out in an area with full sun, rich soil, and plenty of moisture. If you want an earlier bloom, pot up the tubers earlier, indoors and transplant out when the weather warms.

Another Invasive Weed

Q: Could you please help with identifying and give a solution to getting rid of this invasive weed that has shown up in our mulched area, as well as grassy part of our yard. We tried pulling but it continues returning and spreading. It is prickly and annoying.

— Jean Sanchez.

A: The weed Jean is asking about is what looks like a prickly dandelion. I have two candidates: prickly sow thistle (Sonchus asper) and prickly lettuce (Lactuca serriola). While both have prickly edges, the underside rib of prickly lettuce is also covered with spines. Both plants have long tap roots and the initial plant stage is a close-to-the-ground leaf rosette similar to dandelion.

In the garden, there are a few options but the most effective is the most work — hand-pulling and removing the entire taproot. Mowing will offer only limited control because the plants can adjust to the lower height and bloom on shorter stems.

The most interesting solution for prickly lettuce was to allow sheep or goats to graze the area —not a good idea for garden beds but an interesting image.

If you choose a chemical control, broadleaf herbicide, be sure to check the label for effectiveness against either before applying in the fall or spring. Suggested organic controls include horticultural vinegar or an herbicide that includes clove oil (eugenol).

In the garden

Don't be dismayed if the leaves of your recently moved in plants are falling almost as fast as the ones outside. It is common for plants to drop leaves in response to the change in surroundings.

My mandevilla is shedding; I’ll probably cut it back to just a few inches if the shedding continues. Other plants, my rex begonia and flowering maple seem to be adjusting just fine so far, probably just grateful to be inside out of the cold. Remember to increase the humidity in the plant area to compensate for the dry heated air produced in many of our heating systems.

Put gravel filled drip saucers under plants that need humidity and fill the saucers with enough water to almost cover the gravel. For larger areas, consider using a humidifier — not just the plants but also the humans will benefit from a little moisture in the air.

Sue Kittek is a freelance garden columnist, writer, and lecturer. Send questions to Garden Keeper at [email protected] or mail: Garden Keeper, The Morning Call, P.O. Box 1260, Allentown, PA 18105.

Week in the Garden

Planting:

Use asters, kale, mums, winter pansies and other fall garden favorites to brighten the fall landscape. Add pumpkins, gourds, straw or corn to seasonal displays.

Protect plants from frost for longer color.

Finish planting spring-flowering bulbs, garlic and shallots, asparagus and rhubarb, perennials, trees and shrubs.

Sow seeds that require a cold period for germination.

Seasonal:

Clear off mushy foliage after frosts. Remove spent annual and vegetable plants from planters and beds. Keep pathways clear of dead plants and leaves.

Remove and store Halloween decorations. Clean, check, repair and store decorations, discarding all that are damaged.

Dig and store tender summer bulbs as the foliage is killed off by cold weather or frosts.

Allow plants to set seed as food for wildlife. Cut back peony greens to about 3 to 4 inches tall.

Plan ahead, if you are purchasing a live potted or burlapped Christmas tree, find an appropriate planting spot, dig it out and store the soil, covered or in a container in the garage.

Lawn:

Rake, blow or mulch fallen leaves on the lawn. Matted leaves encourage mold and can keep water from reaching the soil.

Cut as needed.

Keep newly seeded or sodded lawns watered; supplement rain in weeks where less than an inch.

Fill in holes and low spots in lawn.

Chores: Watch for frosts. Protect tender plants and get a few more weeks of color.

Stop pruning. Mark off beds, new plantings, plants that are late to break dormancy in the spring and delicate plants. Stay off them when decorating or dealing with snow removal.

Cut to the ground: Allium moly, spent hollyhocks.Trim bleeding hearts, blanket flowers, hardy cranesbills, and Shasta daisies, allowing the basal foliage (the bottom clump of leaves) to remain.

Remove flower stalks or scapes from: daylilies, gayfeather (liatris), and yuccas.

Order or buy mulch for winter but do not apply until the ground freezes.

Store amaryllis bulbs in a cool dry area until they resprout in about 8 to 10 weeks.

Bring in plants. Repot those that need it and pot up others you want to winter over indoors

Remove spent plants from vegetable gardens and compost healthy ones. Destroy or trash diseased or infested plants.

Water new plantings and containers regularly.

Check caulking around doors and windows. Repair now to keep out mice, ladybugs and stinkbugs.

Repair or replace damaged screens and garden hoses.

Dump standing water.

Provide deer, rabbit and groundhog protection for vulnerable plants. Reapply taste or scent deterrents.

Clean and fill bird feeders regularly. Clean up spilled seed and empty hulls.

Dump, scrub and refill birdbaths at least once a week.

Clear gutters and direct rainwater runoff away from foundations.

Tools, equipment, and supplies:

Maintain summer/fall equipment and store as you finish. Sharpen blades, get fresh gas, check and/or replace oil.

Check winter equipment and replace or repair as needed.

Safety:

Check wiring before installing any seasonal light displays.

Clear lawns of debris before mowing.

Keep everyone, especially small children and pets, away from area being mowed.

Store garden chemicals indoors away from pets and children. Discard outdated ones at local chemical collection events.

Photograph storm damage before clearing or repairing for insurance claims and file promptly.

Avoid tick and mosquito bites.

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